Sunday, September 23, 2007

Oslo

In my race to cover Norway before my ScanRail pass expired and I had to go to Russia, I wound up having far too little time in Norway, and Oslo got short changed the most. Here are some pictures from my one afternoon and evening there on Thursday September 6 on my way to see the fjords (over the weekend after labor day).

After that, I only had a brief stay in Oslo on my way back from the fjords and didn't have time to do any more sight seeing. I arrived back in Oslo close to 11 pm on a Sunday evening and had to leave the next morning (Monday, September 10) to get back to Stockholm so I could take a ferry to Helsinki overnight on Tuesday September 11.

I will have to return to Oslo to see more of what it has to offer.


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Norwegian Welcome Wagon

Thursday, September 6, I had an early reveille to catch a 6:30 am train west to Oslo, Norway. Two trains and roughly seven hours later, I arrived in the Oslo central station. As I got off the train, I was starting and stopping a little adjusting my luggage for the walk to my hotel. Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed that a blond, burly guy seemed to be paying a little too much attention to me and to be halting with me. Since it was a crowded public place and was midday, I decided to just keep watch and see what happened.

After a minute or so, I got my bags into a comfortable configuration and started to head toward the end of the train platform for the exit. In a few steps, blond #1 motioned to another guy in front of me who stepped in front of me and started speaking to in English. Although both guys were in civilian dress and were acting somewhat shifty, they claimed to be Norwegian customs agents. To protect their true identities, I'll refer to them by their codenames: Crockett (the guy in front of me) and Tubbs (the first guy I saw tracking me). They pulled small plastic photo id badges from under their sweaters, which looked about as impressive as the membership cards Costco can print out in a few minutes. Crockett asked if I was English and I told them that I was American.

"Customs" to me means "we want to search your possessions thoroughly", so I expressed my skepticism and thanked them for showing ID but told Crockett as a foreigner I didn't know what Norwegian official IDs should look like. Since they weren't in uniform, I said I wanted to comply with Norway's regulations, but I preferred to go to the official customs office in the station and talk to properly credentialed officials in uniform. Crockett said we could do that but that approach would likely take a 2-3 hours. Crockett mentioned that he had on bullet-proof armor and he thumped something hard underneath his sweater. For all I could tell it might be sports equipment. At this point, there was no way I was going to let these two do anything with my possessions without a lot more proof. I apologized and said perhaps I should call my embassy and see what we could do to straighten things out.

About this time, Tubbs lost interest and went off somewhere else. Crockett said that getting my embassy involved was a little premature and (for the first time) mentioned that he only wanted to ask me a few questions. I said I had no problems answering questions, but that if they wanted to search my possessions, we'd have to go somewhere official. He asked me a few general questions about where I came from, how long I was going to be in Norway, and what my general plans were. I told him I was only there for a few days and was going to see the fjords over the weekend. He seemed satisfied and wished me a pleasant journey. I apologized for any misunderstanding and set off for my hotel.

If only these guys had been this careful with Quisling....
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The Kindness of Strangers


Margaret and I wound up talking during the entire boat tour. Afterwards she and her parents, Ann and Charles, were planning to have coffee at Stockholm's premiere hotel, the Grand Hotel, so she generously invited me to join them and treated me to coffee and a snack. Thank you again, Margaret!


Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the three of them, but did see them briefly afterwards as they were heading out. The 2nd picture from the top is of Margaret in black walking from right to left. In the third picture, you can see Charles partially obscured by a bus stop enclosure and Ann behind him. In the last picture, Charles and Margaret are by the end of the bus and Ann is a few steps behind the two of them.

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Stockholm by Sea


While my first full day in Sweden was rainy, Wednesday morning was bright and sunny. So I went on a boat tour of Stockholm and took a lot of pictures. During the boat tour, I sat next to Margaret from Madison, Wisconsin, who was on the last day of a Scandanavian vacation with her parents.
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Saturday, September 22, 2007

Uppsala

The day after I arrived in Stockholm, I went an hour north by train to see Lund's rival university town, Uppsala. I took pictures of the Uppsala cathedral, its museum displays, and the castle at one edge of the university.
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One Night In Stockholm

I arrived in Stockholm at about 6 pm on Labor Day. After checking in to my hotel, I wandered around the city taking pictures as night fell. Everywhere I looked, it seemed, there was something I wanted to photograph. Stockholm, so far, is my favorite European city -- elegant and regal in the way I imagined an imperial capital like Vienna would be.

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Dosvidanya, Denmark

Labor Day, I left Denmark for the trek to Sweden's capital Stockholm. Here are some pictures from the journey by ferry and train.


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A Fistful of Krøner

Various denominations of Danish Krøner before leaving Denmark. The coins with holes, if memory serves, the 1, 2, and 5 Krøner coins. Fractional Krone coins are the really small ones. 10 and 20 Krøner coins are bronzey and solid.
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Gregg's Not So Excellent Sunday Night Adventure

By the time I finished my walk around Kronborg, I was tiring of walking in the wind and heavy rain and already getting a little damp; but I was happy about my decision to buy a water-proof jacket and hood before leaving Seattle. (I wished, however, that I had gotten a matching set of pants.) I was staying at a discount hotel away from the Helsingør city center. It was far enough away that in Helsingør I had always taken taxis for the 5-10 minute ride between the train station and my hotel. so I was looking forward to catching a cab back for the night.

First problem: Helsingør is a sleepy little town. I was trying to catch a cab at about dusk when other people were arriving at the train station, so there weren't enough cabs. This entailed waiting in the heavy rain.

Second problem: Despite the fact that Denmark has frequent inclement weather, the Helsingør taxi waiting area is completely without shelter.

Third problem: as I learned, there isn't a clear system to queuing in driving rain.

As I got the the taxi line there were some people already in front of me. Taxis were coming infrequently, with several wet minutes in between cabs. Finally it seemed my turn had come. While I was waiting, a couple of women -- one 50ish, the other much older came. They asked if I was next in line. We waited for a while together and I decided I would give them the cab since I didn't want the elderly woman to spend a lot of time in the cold rain. When the cab came, I insisted that they take it.

There were a couple of problems with this decision:
1) The women were not together
2) Evidently the cab was not mine to give away

As soon as I had made clear to the elder woman to take the cab, a guy came running from the side of the train station. I had seen him there when I came in, but he never was in the line and had let people take cabs before him. So I thought he was waiting for a friend or for his train. This caused some problems, but the old woman finally rode away.

At that point, I had no faith that I would get a taxi in the next half hour. Already being wet and irritated myself, I also didn't want to have some pissed-off Dane bitch at me during that time. So I decided to hike back home. This was complicated, though, because I had never walked to my hotel before. I knew basically how to get there, but I didn't know exactly how to get from the train station to the road that led to my hotel. Also, between the heavy rain, droplets on my glasses, and the dwindling twilight, it was a struggle to read the tourist maps I had or even the small street plaques that mark Danish roads.

There were many minutes of cursing Danes and Europeans and my jeans were completely soaked in the end, but 40 minutes later I got back to my hotel room. I had just washed my only other pair of pants the night before, so I thought my trip to Stockholm might be a little damp the next day. My room did have a radiator, though; so I learned that they work well for drying cotton clothes quickly.

The moral of the story to me: always know my way home.

Hamlet's Castle

After returning from Sofiero, I decided to walk over to Kronberg and take some pictures of Helsingør's famous castle. It was overcast when I started over to the castle; it was windy and pouring by the end, as the droplets in some of the photos show.
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Swedes ♥ Booze


One of the attractions on the 72 daily passages from Sweden to Denmark is the large liquor shop on each of the ferries. Alcohol is significantly more expensive and harder to get in Sweden, so it's not uncommon to see people wheeling carts of beer and booze back home.
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Aurora Info

Here are the information plaques on the Aurora the Helsingborg-Helsingoer ferry I took back to Denmark after visiting Sofiero.


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Sofiero

Helsingborg's castle Sofiero is a few miles away from the city center where the ferries dock, so I missed it on my first visit. Click here to see pictures from my visit on the afternoon of September 2nd.
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Monday, September 10, 2007

Lund

After seeing Helsingborg, I took the train about an hour south to the university town of Lund, just north of Malmö, Sweden. Click here to see my pictures from Lund.
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Helsingborg

Click here to see my photos of Helsingborg.
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Sucky-sucky, frou-frou

After dinner at an Italian/Greek restaurant in Roskilde, I ordered an Italian coffee for dessert. The drink came with a unique straw that looked ike a cross between a Christmas ornament and a frilled lizard.
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Headed to Helsingborg

Friday August 31st I headed to Sweden the first time. A ferry system runs three ferries (Hamlet, Aurora, and Tycho Brahe) continuously across the Øresund between Helsingør (Denmark) and Helsingborg (Sweden). Thus you can take a trip roughly every 20 minutes at any time of day.
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Roskilde

Click here to see pictures from my visit to Roskilde, about 40 minutes west of Copenhagen by train. I went here directly after visiting Hillerød. Most of the pictures are of or in the Roskilde Cathedral.
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